Explore the Saale with paddle and pedal
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Canoe tour along the Saale between Kaatschen and GroßheringenPhoto: Peter Eichler -
The Saale is the most important and largest river in Thuringia. Numerous towns line its banks, the Thuringian Sea is fed by the Saale and great hiking and cycling trails follow its course. But you get a whole new perspective when you follow the river in a canoe, kayak or rubber dinghy - so let's get going.
By kayak from Jena to Camburg
We have decided on a combination tour that will take us several days into the wonderful natural and cultural landscape of the Saale. We start in Jena by kayak.
For the next few hours we paddle through the beautiful Saale valley, letting ourselves drift and following the course of the river. At the beginning we are in the middle of lovely valley sections.
At Porstendorf it all depends: What does the water level look like? If the water level is high enough, you can choose the right-hand variant via the old Saale past Rabeninsel and avoid the hydroelectric power station. If you take the left-hand option, you ll find a campsite, a bathing lake and a beer garden. We are lucky, the water level is high enough and we choose the right variant, bypass Rabeninsel and stay in our boats.
Soon afterwards we can already make out the Dornburg castles above the vineyards. In Dorndorf we still have to get out: At the hydroelectric power station we have to carry our kayaks. The Saale valley narrows, rugged shell limestone rocks rise up and the white keep of Camburg Castle announces the end of the stage. We get out of our boats and finish the day with a visit to the town museum in Camburg, which is housed in the town's historic Amtshof.
By kayak from Camburg to Naumburg
The second day in the boat - as a relatively inexperienced and not regular kayaker, my arms hurt from the first day. But I set off on the stage from Camburg to Naumburg anyway, after all it is supposed to be the most beautiful, interesting and natural stretch of the Saale. Past Tümpling Castle, the first vineyards are soon in sight: We pass through Germany's northernmost quality wine-growing region, Saale-Unstrut. Vineyards lie on the slopes of the river banks.
After Kaatschen it becomes quieter, the vegetation looks like primeval forest and with a bit of luck we can spot the kingfishers that live here. At Großheringen the Saale leaves Thuringia and we cross the border to Saxony-Anhalt in a boat. We spot Saaleck Castle and Rudelsburg Castle on the rugged shell limestone rocks of the Saale bank. Then it's a bit more racy: in rapids through the narrow valley, spanned by railway bridges.
After Bad Kösen we have to get out and portage around the weir. The vineyards dominate the landscape: wine was already cultivated in the Pforta monastery in the 12th century. We have to get off again at Almrich and then Naumburg is already on the right bank of the river. The characteristic silhouettes of the cathedral and Wenceslas Church can only be guessed at. We continue paddling until the Unstrut flows into the Saale in Naumburg's Blütengrund - an impressive sight.
Cultural experience in Naumburg
Today we have earned a break. We spent the night in Naumburg and want to explore the town today and rest a bit before we cycle back to Jena tomorrow.
UNESCO World Heritage since 2018
Naumburg is a place of culture; Naumburg Cathedral is even a UNESCO World Heritage Site. So we set off for the historic old town.
The cathedral is really impressive - even from the outside. Inside we find the twelve founder figures and over 30 works of art from the Middle Ages and Renaissance.
We continue to wander through the city and reach Wenceslas Church. Of course we climb the tower and enjoy the great view from the observation deck. The baroque organ from 1746 delights with evening concerts and, in the summer, also with lunchtime music - you have to hear it!
By bike back from Naumburg to Jena
On our last day of the multi-day tour along the Saale, we swing into the saddle. The Saale Cycle Path runs as close to the river as few other river cycle paths. We cycle from Naumburg back to Jena, which corresponds to the 6th stage of the Saale Cycle Route in the opposite direction. The route takes us along well-maintained cycle paths and little-travelled country roads, and we are particularly pleased with the view of the Saale - so we can relive our kayak tour of the previous days.
In addition, we still have the opportunity by land to visit the beautiful sights we saw from the boat. First we stop at the Pforta monastery and for a short time we follow in the footsteps of Klopstock and Nietzsche, who went to school here. A few kilometres later, after a steep climb, we stop again to see Saaleck Castle. Here you can see changing exhibitions as well as the permanent exhibition on the "Wild Horse Hunters of Saaleck".
But my special highlight is the Dornburg castles. The three adjacent buildings date from different eras and nestle into the landscape in a fascinating way. We stroll through the park, feel transported back to other times and look far down on the Saale. But at some point, we tear ourselves away from our daydreams and cover the last stretch on the Saale cycle path to Jena.
We have had a great trip and we are convinced that the Saale is ideal for cycling as well as for water tours. And a combination of the two modes of transport is particularly beautiful. When you set off, don't forget to plan time for the sights - the Saale has the highest density of castles and palaces in the whole of Germany.
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UNESCO World Heritage since 2018
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