Stefan Stadler: A head for heights and sure-footedness - climbing the needles of the world
Stefan's passion for climbing limestone, sandstone, and granite needles might not be for everyone, but the thrill and sense of solitude that these adventures deliver make everything worth it.
He can also often be found ski touring in unconventional destinations- such as Corsica - where he always manages to find the opportunity for some great pictures and to gather an exciting tale or two to tell.
In this interview, we talk to Stefan about what drives his love of the outdoors and how he manages the risks involved. For those who might feel inspired, many of Stefan's routes can be found on his Outdooactive profile.
How did you get into climbing and why needles and towers in particular?
It was actually through climbing in the mountains with the armed forces in Bad Reichenhall. I just sort of stumbled into it. I was 22 at the time but didn't get really involved until I was 30, which made me a bit late to the game, but it doesn't really matter, as I'm still having fun.
As for the needles and towers, that was really just by chance. We were in Chamonix in September 10 years ago and had planned some trips way up in the mountains. But then it suddenly snowed so much that these became impossible and so we had to opt for lower climbing areas and went to the Aiguillette de Argentiere. That was great! In terms of style, it felt a bit climbing-gym-like, but the sensation of being on those sharp needles and standing on top of them all exposed was awesome. The pictures also looked really cool. So, that's really how it all started and since then, I've always been on the lookout for new towers to climb. It's really satisfying to stand on something that only has a single point of access and the solitude you find on these pointed needles is completely different to standing at a summit cross in a crowd of 50 other people. From Finale Ligure to the Tres Frati I can enjoy great rock, great vistas, great weather, and great company - plus it's just really good fun.
The Tre Frati are not only beautiful to look at, but also offer nice sport climbing routes. The majority of the routes have been renovated with ...
The climbs on the Aiguillette de Argentiere (1,893 m) are sufficiently secured with bolts and start at difficulty level 4c. The gneiss is of good ...
Do you ever get vertigo or feel scared when climbing?
I'm actually pretty hardened in that respect. When I'm lead climbing my head is usually just empty. It's just me and the rock and the line - everything else is just gone. You're only focusing on the movements and the next step, the next hold, and the next belay. When I'm that focused, I really don't care about the exposure - I'm relatively relaxed. Of course, every now and then you think to yourself, "Woah! What am I doing!" and 'That's quite a drop!' like, for example, on the Steinernen Jäger at Hochstaufen, but generally I'm fine and not scared.
Rock climbing, scrambling, ridge routes, and also ski tours. How do you manage all these hobbies?
Well, I generally stick to one area and prefer not to venture out of the Eastern Alps, at least as far as my climbing is concerned. Doing this also makes the weekend less hectic and having Berchtesgaden as my base is of course really convenient! But Sächsische Schweiz is also really cool. You have to know exactly what you're doing from a technical perspective and you also have to lower your climbing grade a lot. If you don't have a problem with any of this, then you can have a lot of fun. The Schusterweg on Falkenstein is great, for example.
As far as ski touring goes, I am actually keen to venture further and discover new areas in Europe for myself. It's always awesome to group up with like-minded people for a 10-day stretch and to get out in really remote backcountry - where everything is as pure as it gets - is what it's all about for me right now: just being away. There's none of the dull everyday stuff to deal with - it's just us on our skis in the wilds. This is my idea of a good way to spend your free time.
There's also an environmental aspect to all of this. There should be a compelling reason to make a trip away from home. In this regard, I now focus more on traveling for ski tours while doing my climbing at home where I have the Eastern Alps on my doorstep.
It almost sounds as though ski touring is your favorite sport! You were in Corsica last winter. Isn't that a rather unusual place for good snow?
Yes, but this makes Corsica an exciting destination, as there's not much information and so you have to plan well and be prepared for eventualities while you're out. I mean, is it ever possible to really know what the snow situation will be? Conditions this winter were actually really good and we had the chance to go up Monte Rotondo which was great. You are worried when you first start out that the whole thing won't go to plan... and then it does. Those are the best moments.
So, yes, I plan everything meticulously, but because you don't have a network of webcams and you only discover what conditions are like on the day, it does make things a bit more of an adventure. But Corsica is a beautiful island and what a great experience we had!
What's been your most memorable experience in your mountain adventures so far?
My standout climb by far has to be the Devil's Ridge in Chamonix. The rock, landscape, and exposure were as ideal as the weather on the day. Just being in such a place at 4,000 meters in the warmth and with zero wind made it the perfect climb.
Mountain sports always carry a degree of risk no matter how much you plan or how careful you are. Have you ever been in a bad situation and if so, what did you take away from it?
Next to the "Badile Nordkante" and the "Fußstein Nordkante", the third famous north edge, which is one of the most beautiful granite climbs in the ...
Of course, every mountain enthusiast knows this, and some more than others. If I ever encounter a bad situation, the very first thing I do is reflect on it. Why and how did I get into it? Could I have avoided it? What do I need to do differently in the future to mitigate such things happening again?
In 2018 I had to be rescued by helicopter. I was on the north edge of the Grundschartner which is actually very well known for its solid rock. As the devil would have it, that's exactly where I had a stone break off on me. Luckily I was roped in and only fell about 8 meters, but I still broke my kneecap and also had a gaping flesh wound on my lower leg. I had time afterward in the hospital and also while rehabilitating to think about things. Why do I do this? Why do I expose myself to risk again and again? I realized how close good luck and bad luck actually are and that on a route that is known for its super rock, I happened to have a rock fail on me.... crazy.
It could have been an entirely different story. I thought about how I'd survived the whole thing and really, it was down to the fact that was using a rope. Otherwise, I would have plummeted 50m onto the rocks below. And why did I have a rope? Because I believe in safety first. This was grade 4 climbing, where some might not have bothered with ropes and security. That's what I took away as a lesson: do things the way they should be done. Use a rope, and wear a climbing helmet. When ski touring, check the avalanche situation and bring your equipment.
So I came to the conclusion that I'm not going to change anything. Sure, you never have a 100% safety guarantee, but can certainly minimize risk as much as possible. The combination of being out in nature and enjoying the freedom and physical activity is what makes mountain adventures for me, and I don't want to miss out on that.
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